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No. 593,175. Patented Nov. 2, 1897..

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UNDERWEAR.

No. 593,175. Patented Nov. 2, 1897.

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No. 593,175. Patented Nov. 2, 1897.

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I UNITED STATES PATENT @rricn.

JULIUS M. I-IEYMAN, OF NEIV YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO JOHN J. PAXTON,

' OF SAME PLACE.

UNDERWEAR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 593,175, dated November2, 1897.

' Application filed'April 14, 1897; Serial No. 632,091 (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, J ULIUS M. HEYMAN, a citizen of the United States,residing at the city, county, and State of New York, have 5 made certainnew and useful Improvements in Underwear, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention relates to improvements in underwear, and more especiallyto that class of undergarments known as union suits.

In the manufacture of underwear, and more especially union suits forladies, it has been customary to form means for permitting the dressingor undressing the person i with the same, consisting of either avertical separation in the front body portion of the garment extendingfrom the neck-opening to or near the leg portion, thereby separating thegarment into two unwieldy and ill-fit- 2o ting halves, requiring the useof a line of vertically-disposed buttons, holes, stays, and the likeover the sensitive portion of the body to secure the halves together, orthe body portion has been knitted in one piece all around and up to orclosely adjacent the shoulder portion and transversely separated at thatpoint to allow of dressing or undressing, the transverse separationbeing closed by flaps passing over the shoulder and covering the 0separation at each side of the neck,as shown in United States Patent toA. Frey, No. 496,302, dated April 25, 1893. Both of these constructionshave many undesirable features, and both possess the disadvantage of notallowing 5 the use of a low-neck dress or enabling the wearer todispense with a neck and upperchest covering at will for summer or housewear.

It is the object of my invention to construct an undergarment so as toallow of the use of the same for full or partial upper-chest coveringand at the same time to allow of the body being readily dressed orundressed with the garment. To carry out this part of my 5 invention,which may be applied to undervests as well as to union suits, I form orcut an opening in the upper or shoulder portion to produce a low-neckedgarment and combine with it a cape with a neck-opening and a verticalseparation in front, the cape having means for detachably securing it tothe body portion of the garment at said cutaway portion. My invention inthis regard comprehends various features of improvement hereinafterdescribed,and further pointed out in the claims.

My invention further consists in a garment with a detachable sleeve andcertain attaching means for carrying out the combination features of myinvention.

In the drawings forming part of my specification, Figure l is a frontview of a figure dressed with my improved union suit, the cape being inplace. Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same. Figs. 3 and 4 are respectivelyonlarged sectional elevations of the front and rear of the shoulderportions of the garment on the inside. Fig. 5 is an enlarged inside planview of the cape detached. -Fig. 6 is a front View of a figure dressedwith my improved union suit, the cape being removed, showing the neckand shoulder opening in the garment. Fig. 7 is a front elevation, partlyin section, showing the sleeve and shoulder portion detached; and Fig. 8is a like view of the same parts attached.

Similar numerals of reference indicate corresponding parts throughoutthe several views.

In forming the garment-say the union suitto provide it with mydetachable cape I proceed as follows:

So far as the application of the detachable cape to the shoulder portionof the garment is concerned I do not limit myself to its employment onunion suits or in connection with a garment constructed as a whole, asherein after described, for it will be clear that such cape can beattached to the ordinary undervest.

In knitting the undergarment, the body heing formed as desired, I formthe shoulder 7 portion and then cut out a portion of said shoulders,leaving an opening 1 and separate shoulder-flap 2, to which the sleeves3 are subsequently secured by lines of stitching 4, the upper ends orshoulder portions 5 of the shoulder-flaps being subsequently securedtogether on the shoulder median line. The opening 1 may also be formedin knitting the garment. The opening thus formed in the shoulder portionof the garment may have an equal depth front and back, but I prefer thatthe upper edge of the garment in front be higher than at the rear, asshown at 6 and 7, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, and it may have anydesired shape, taking combinations in V or square openings in both oreither the front or rear.

The formation of the openingin the shoulder portion of the garmentallows of its employment for summer use and low-'neck-dress purposes.

At 8 is the cape, (of the form shown either in Fig. 6 or 7 or any othershape confoi'ming to that of the opening 1,) which I have designed fordetachably securing within the opening thus formed in the shoulderportion of the garment, the cape being provided with means for beingdetachably secured to the edges of the opening and to cover the body ofthe wearer at that point, as clearly illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Byreference to Fig. 6 it will be seen that the cape is provided with anopening 9 for the neck of the wearer located closer to the front thanthe rear, where the opening 1 is deeper, and between the front loweredge 10 of the cape and the neck-opening the material is separated, soas to form breast-flaps 11.

To provide for the securement of the cape to the edge of the cut-awayportion or opening 1 of the garment and to preserve a certain amount oftransverse elasticity, or, in other words, to properly stay the edges ofthe opening 1 for the formation of buttonholes and attachment of buttonsthereto (or the alternat-ive use of hooks and eyes or the like) and toallow of the material at the opening 1 being stretched transversely toincrease the size of the opening in that direction, I secure to thefabric of the garment along the edge of the opening 1 four stays 12 13,the stay 12 being of material less elastic than the body of the garmentand extending from a point closely adjacent the front and rear centerline of the garment around the edge of the opening 1 across theshoulders to opposite points on the front and rear edge of the opening,the stays being secured by stitching in the usual or desired manner andprovided with buttonholes 14., extending through the stays and thefabric of the garment, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4, and 5. The stay 13, ofthe same material as the stay 12, is also secured at the edge of theopening in the same manner and provided with buttonholes 15.

The stays 12 reinforce the fabric of the garment at its point ofattachment and preserves its shape or contour, preventing it frominadvertently releasing itself from the shoulders, and preserves thecontour of the garment at the points of attachment.

Between the ends of the stays 12 the fabric of the garment at the edgeof the opening has its original elasticity preserved, the intermittingof these stays forming elastic sections 16, which allow of a stretchingof the garment in the line of the stays to increase the size of theopening, at the same time drawing the edge of the opening about theperson of the wearer, and thereby dispensing with the employment ofpieces of elastic Webbin g for this purpose. The upper edge of theopening is provided with an ornamental fringe and a draw-string runningthrough the fringe to contract the opening to the desired extent andfirmly secure the upper portion of the garment to the body of thewearer, the stays 12 stiffening the fabric of the garment at the point.

The body of the cape is preferably of the same material as the body ofthe garment, and its outer edge on the inside is provided with a stay17, of comparatively non-elastic material and otherwise ornamented asdesired, from which stay projects buttons 18 to engage the buttonholesin the stays 12, the separation in the front portion of the cape beingstayed on each side 19 20 and provided with buttons 21 and buttonholes22, the lower button on the flaps 11 and the lower central button on theback-flap engaging the buttonholes 15 in the stays 13, the edge of theneckopening 9 in the cape 8 being provided with an ornamental fringe 23and draw-string 24C for obvious purposes.

The cape on the inside is further provided with transverse stays 25, ofcomparatively inelastic material, secured to the fabric of the cape onthe median line of the shoulder, and which prevents an undue stretchingof the fabric of the cape along this line and firmly connects thedraw-string about the neckopening with the shoulder of the garment. Inthis Way a very desirable undergarment is constructed having all of theadvantages heretofore recited and the same advantages possessed by othergarments of a like character in regard to dressing or undressing.

Instead of providing the body of the garment with permanent sleeves ofeither short or full length I can form the sleeve independently of thebody of the garment and furnish the sleeve and the garment with meansfor detachably securing these parts together, thus allowing ofemployment of the garment under low-neck and short-sleeve conditions. Inpracticingthis part of my invention I proceed as follows: Instead offorming the full or short 'sleeve sections 3 on the garment or attachingthem I form a short arm-stub 4 on the shoulder portion of the garment,which may be fringed and provided with a drawstring 4" for tighteningthe end of the stub about the arm, and on the exterior of the stubadjacent the edge 1 secure tabs 4, which may be short pieces of silktape or the like, preferably three on each side. At 4 is a sleevefashioned as usual, its end l being of sufficient width to enable it topass over and lap the stub P", strings 4 being fixed to the interior ofthe sleeve adjacent its end 4.

To secure the sleeve and stub together, the sleeve is passed over thestub and the strings 4 passed through the tabset and there se ICC curedin place, as shown in Fig. 9. It is clear that the parts can be readilydetached by untying the strings and pulling 01f the sleeve.

Having described my invention, I claiml. An undergarment cut awaytransversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, incombination with a cape having a neck-opening and a separation from oneedge to the neck-opening, and means for detachably securing the cape tothe edges of said cut-away portion, substantially as described.

2. An undergarment cut away transversely at the upper portion to form alow-necked garment, in combination with a cape detachably secured to theedges of saidcut-away portion, and having a neck-opening and aseparation between one of its edges and said neck-opening, and a staysecured to the cape in line with the neck-opening and extending to theshoulder portion of the garment, substantially as described.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a cape, having the neck-opening 9,the breast-flaps 11 formed by separating the fabric of the cape betweenone edge and the neck-openin g, a circumferential stay 17, a cross-stay25 in line with the neck-opening, and a contractible edge formed on theneck-opening, substantially as described.

at. An undergarment cutaway transversely at the upper portion to form alow-necked garment, as at 1, stays 12 secured to the edges of saidcut-away portion and extending from front to rear, the stays 13 securedto the garment at the front and rear central portions of the cut-awayportion, the intermitted sections 16, 16 of the same fabric as the bodyof the garment, in combination with a cape having aneck-opening and atransverse separation, and means on the cape for securing it to saidstays, substantially as described.

5. An undergarment cutaway transversely at the upper portion to form alow-necked garment, in combination with a cape, having a neck-opening, acontractible edging formed on the neck-opening, the cape being separatedfrom one edge to the neck-opening, means for detachably securing suchseparation, and further means for detachably securing ,the edges of thecape to those of said cut-away portion, substantially as described.

6. An undergarment cut away, transversely at the upper portion to form alow-necked garment, in combination with a cape having a neck-opening anda separation from one edge to the neck-opening, a circumferential stayon the cape, and means for detachably securing said cape at the stay tothe edges of said cut-away portion, substantially as described.

7 As a new article of manufacture, an undergarment cut away transverselyat the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, as at 1, stays 12,12, of less elastic material than the body of the garment secured to theedges of said cut-away portionand extending from front to rear, theintermitted sections 16, 16 of the same fabric as the body of thegarment lying between the ends of the stays 12, 12, and a contractibleedge formed on said cut-away portion, substantially as described.

8. In an undergarment, the combination with the sleeve-stub 4: on theshoulder portion of the garment, the sleeve P having an end opening ofsufficient width to overlap the sleeve-stub 4, and means on the sleeveand stub and covered by the overlapping of the sleeve for detachablysecuring one to the other, comprising the tabs 4 on the sleeve stub andstrings i on the inside of the sleeve end 4 substantially as described.

Signed at the city, county, and State of New York this 12th day ofApril, 1897.

JULIUS M. HEYMAN.

Witnesses:

WILLIAM JAOOBSEN, S. B. KUHN.

